TUESDAY, 10/2:
Another bright blue sky, gorgeous day. Our first day in Zion National Park. When we were at the Grand Canyon North Rim 3
years ago, we drove thru a corner of Zion on our way to L.A. But now we get to take our time!
Woke up to another very chilly morning –
but, as with Bryce Canyon and this entire semi-desert area – as soon as the sun
comes up, it warms up fast!
Our RV site is only a mile from the East
Entrance of Zion. That’s the good
news. The bad news: to enter from the East Entrance, you need to
go thru 2 tunnels. The longest, a mile,
was built in the 1920’s, and, while considered an engineering marvel then,
doesn’t easily accommodate today’s wide vehicles. So, if your vehicle is over a certain width
(and all dual-wheel trucks are automatically in that category), you need to go
through a certain process. Essentially,
they stop all west-bound traffic thru the tunnel so that you can go through
using the center line (and opposite when leaving the park). Our NPS deems fit to charge a $15 fee for
this accommodation. At least it’s for a
2-way trip. And we certainly can’t
complain in the slightest – we’ve been to 5 National Parks on this trip, as
well as some National Monuments & National Forests, and, because we’re
“mature adults” (i.e., over a certain
age) , we have a pass which entitles us to free admission to all of these
federal lands. As one Ranger at an
entrance booth cheerfully explained, “You’ve been paying taxes all these years,
and now it’s time to thank you.” Such a
deal!!
After the tunnel adventure, we just let
ourselves immerse in the gorgeous red rock cliff and mountain scenery on the
road into the Visitors Center (about 15-16 miles).
The first “named” formation
we saw, right in front of us, was the “Checkerboard.”
I’m sure that we passed other well-known
formations, but we’re not familiar enough with Zion yet to know what we’re
looking at. We first headed towards
what’s called the Human History Museum, which is where the orientation film is
shown, which, as all these films are, was excellent. We left our truck parked here, as you must
take a shuttle for the main scenic road of the Park. Not optional, as it was with Bryce. Which is fine with us. Our first stop was the actual Visitors
Center, where we asked a Ranger for some recommendations for hikes, etc.
So we hopped back on the shuttle and went
to Zion Lodge, where the trailhead begins for the hike we decided to do
today: the Emerald Pools trail. This
is a series of 3 pools, each at a higher elevation. The first was an easy walk of less than a
mile, which started out crossing a bridge over the Virgin River, the river
which carved this canyon. Then the trail went past a couple of lovely
waterfalls. Surprising that they’re
still flowing, after the dry year everyone has had. But there are lots of seeps
& little springs embedded in these massive rocks, which keep the Virgin
River flowing all year. I can only
imagine the volume the falls put forth in the spring, or after a big
thunderstorm!
The hike to the second pool was a little
more challenging – up a series of steps, to a placid little clear pool
surrounded by slickrock..
And the trail to the third & highest pool was definitely challenging – steep, up through a lot of rocks. In fact, I read in one of my guidebooks that the NPS doesn’t even maintain this portion of the trail any more. I don’t know why – it’s a popular destination. This third pool is surrounded on 3 sides by sheer cliffs, and the 4th by a little boulder foothill. The cliffs were majestic and sublime.
It was really interesting – there were probably a dozen people here at the 3rd pool, and no one was talking loudly – everyone was either silent, or whispering, as if some higher instinct just prompted us to “Be still, and know that I am God.”
And the trail to the third & highest pool was definitely challenging – steep, up through a lot of rocks. In fact, I read in one of my guidebooks that the NPS doesn’t even maintain this portion of the trail any more. I don’t know why – it’s a popular destination. This third pool is surrounded on 3 sides by sheer cliffs, and the 4th by a little boulder foothill. The cliffs were majestic and sublime.
It was really interesting – there were probably a dozen people here at the 3rd pool, and no one was talking loudly – everyone was either silent, or whispering, as if some higher instinct just prompted us to “Be still, and know that I am God.”
Hiked back down. . We
wanted to get back to the Lodge by 4:30 or 5:00, as from there we’d take the
shuttle back to the truck, and from there we needed to be at the tunnel by
6:00. They only allow large vehicles
(which require the special accommodation I spoke of above) to travel thru the
tunnel 8:00 a.m thru 6:00 p.m. I’m not
sure what would actually happen if you showed up after 6:00 – if they’d refuse
you entrance to the tunnel or not. If
we’re late leaving some evening, we may find out!
Anyway, when we got back to the bridge at
the Lodge area, there were 3 mule deer grazing, totally unconcerned about us.
After the tunnel, drove the 16 miles or so
within the Park boundaries, then the few miles to the RV park. It’s all stunning scenery – unbelievably
high, sculptured cliffs and mountains.
I admitted to Bill that, after having visited Grand and Bryce Canyons, I wondered if Zion would be kind of anti-climactic, or a let-down. I needn’t have worried! It’s spectacular in its own way. It’s kind of a cross between the utter grandeur and majesty of the Grand Canyon, and the intricacy and fantasy of Bryce – Zion has elements of both. In fact, all of the red rock areas we’ve been at – the 3 National Parks, plus Monument Valley, plus Sedona – are unique and characteristically their own.
I admitted to Bill that, after having visited Grand and Bryce Canyons, I wondered if Zion would be kind of anti-climactic, or a let-down. I needn’t have worried! It’s spectacular in its own way. It’s kind of a cross between the utter grandeur and majesty of the Grand Canyon, and the intricacy and fantasy of Bryce – Zion has elements of both. In fact, all of the red rock areas we’ve been at – the 3 National Parks, plus Monument Valley, plus Sedona – are unique and characteristically their own.
Was lovely outside when we got home. Fired up the grill right away, and I put some
seasoned new potatoes in the oven, and made a
nice salad to go with the steak Bill’s grilling. Ate outdoors in perfect fall weather,
accompanied by a chorus of crickets.
Doesn’t get much better than that!
Walked across the street for a little
while to do some computer work, but they closed at 9:00, so didn’t get as much
done as I’d hoped.
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